XMPP (Jabber) as a Message Broker

For a long while I’ve relied on Jabber/XMPP support within Google Talk to communicate with back-end systems like my Garage Security monitor. Garage Security could push notifications to me when motion was detected, and I could reply back to ask for camera snapshots or current temperatures. It’s almost as if I was using XMPP and Google’s Talk servers as a message bus; everything was a request/response pair that I could receive as notifications in a nice lil’ mobile interface. This was a superior approach to having a peer-to-peer communication channel over the Internet at large - I could keep my firewall completely closed and instead publish events to a trusted broker over at Google HQ. I essentially treated Google Talk like a hosted RabbitMQ instance.

This "XMPP broker” approach continued to work after Google moved from Google Talk to Hangouts and dropped full XMPP support (notably for federation), however things appear to have become a bit more difficult when two different systems (like Garage Security and my new Sprinkler Switch) want to share the same Hangouts user ID. Previously both systems would receive an inbound message, so I would filter by a token in the message body. If I asked for “garage status,” Garage Security would catch the “garage” keyword and respond while Sprinkler Switch would just ignore it. As Hangouts has turned the XMPP support decidedly more text-message-ish, it seems now the last system to authenticate will starve out the previous system, and only one system will actually receive the messages.

This is not outside of the XMPP spec it seems, and the protocol itself specifies two ways for the systems themselves to deal with the issue:

1. When connecting to the XMPP server set the priority for your connection. A higher priority is more likely to get inbound messages.
   
2. Specify a resource name within your XMPP user identifier. This allows a system to be uniquely addressable with the same username.
   

The first option doesn’t necessarily help my situation - I want both systems to receive inbound messages. The second option is possible using XMPP’s definition of user IDs… where a user identifier is actually the composite of:

• The username that is used for authentication
  
• The domain that the user resides within
  
• The resource that uniquely identifies who is signing in
  

Using this schema, I could provide SleekXMPP a JabberID (its native user identifier) of chuckleface@gmail.com/garage and have it uniquely identify Garage Security, while chuckleface@gmail.com/sprinkler uniquely identifies Sprinkler Switch. It’s not entirely unlike the routing key in AMQP or a topic name in JMS… chuckleface could be considered your message type, gmail.com could be considered your exchange, and garage could be considered your ID. Or something like that. It makes sense in my head at least.

Hangouts, however, just cares about chat messages. It could give two craps about my resource name. There’s no way to specify that in a contact either… with Hangouts you specify an e-mail address which in turn becomes a username and a domain. That’s fine for chat… but when I want to address an individual system I’m kinda outta luck. Hangouts will just reply back to the last resource that sent it a message - no way to specify a specific resource.

I've posted a demo using Python on GitHub which lets you build a quick XMPP client. An example might be:

>>> from jabtest import Jabber
>>> jab1 = Jabber('test@gmail.com', 'apikeyh4x0r5', 'testone')
Opened XMPP Connection
>>> jab2 = Jabber('test@gmail.com', 'apikeyh4x0r5', 'testone')
Opened XMPP Connection
>>> jab1.send_msg('deckerego@gmail.com', 'Testing One')
Sending message: Testing One

I don't have a fantastic solution for now... so in the interim I've disabled Jabber support for Sprinkler Switch.

An Expensive Failure of Judgement

So remember when I precariously perched a moderately encased rangefinder above my sump pump well? It was kinda wedged in between the cover and the well wall, and I thought there wasn't enough play in the line leading to the rangefinder as to let it drop in. Well... all my hackery finally caught up to me and a very expensive sensor ended up taking a swim. Current remained running through it the entire time so for several hours it swam in well water, slowly accreting minerals. No amount of drying out would save it.

I wasn't going to replace it with another expensive sensor... so I went the completely opposite direction and built an unbelievably primitive water detector. Here two plates of aluminum foil were hot-glued to construction paper and the bare end of my infamous telephone wire, then isolated in electrical tape. If water bridged the two aluminum plates, a connection would be made - at least enough of a connection to be considered a "high" signal.

The other end of the two wires were sent to the NPN transistor that was originally intended to work as a UART logic inverter. Now it was a simple logic gate; once the water closed the circuit the NPN shut off the current headed to a GPIO pin. If the pin was live, no water was detected. If the pin was dead, you had a problem.


The web front-end that I created for this whole rigamarole was updated to reflect this hack, and now just reports the binary status of the water detector. I'm not thrilled with the setup, but I also wasn't too keen on the idea of plopping any more money down on a solution.

So... lesson learned. Don't dangle water sensitive components over a well of water.

I do have a need for another security camera, so this whole setup may just be ditched in favor of another Motion rig. I really dig the I2C temperature and humidity breakout board however, and I'd like to keep using it. Maybe I'll save up my allowance and get a CC3000 WiFi board and pair it up with the temp/humidity board... that would be a pretty nifty & tiny package.

It's a Basement, not a Swimming Pool

Second up on my paranoia list is my basement slowly filling with water. My paranoia is founded in a rich history of failed sump pumps, broken water mains and power outages. I can mitigate some of my worries by installing a backup, non-electric Venturi aspirator and a die-cast primary sump pump - however anything mechanical can break. I believe in nothing anymore.

A Raspberry Pi can help satiate most of my neurosis, including this one. Using a Honeywell HumidIcon Digital Humidity/Temperature Sensor and a Maxbotix Ultrasonic Range Finder I can monitor basement humidity, temperature and sump well levels.

My first component to integrate was the range finder. The Maxbotix LV-EZ4 can operate in one of two modes - either providing an ASCII representation of the range using RS232 serial communication or using an analog voltage. I dorked around with two possible ways of using this - feeding an analog signal through an Adafruit Trinket and have the values translated into an I2C signal. However - I had a 5v Trinket - and even with constructing voltage dividers I couldn't quite coordinate the right voltages to negotiate with the Pi. I punted and used the serial port from the LV-EZ4, however the Pi uses UART and so I had to create a logic inverter using a recycled NPN transistor. Once I inverted the signals from the range finder, the Pi was able to read the inbound ASCII representation of the range.

After I had the range finder working, I used Sparkfun's Honeywell breakout board via I2C to communicate temperature and humidity to the Pi. Both the range finder and the breakout board fit nicely on a mini breadboard, sharing voltage and ground while splitting out I2C data, clock and RS232 data feeds. Once permissions were correctly set and kernel modules loaded, things appeared to be working nicely.

I wanted to save the range finder from water splashes, or at least slow its eventual decay. I re-used the case from the SD card I purchased for the Raspberry Pi, cutting out holes for the extrusions in the range finder board. Corners were then covered in electrical tape, and the seams were covered in hot glue. No, it's not pretty. No, it may not add to the LV-EZ4's lifespan. It was at least worth a shot however, and I've added a bit of crush/drop protection.

Everything is hooked into a Raspberry Pi Model A, just to save a few bucks. For an enclosure I ripped apart an old Netgear wireless access point, which easily housed the mini breadboard and the Pi. I decided to try things out but stumbled upon an unsettling fact... there are no power outlets near the sump pump well. Undeterred, I went looking for any long length of wire and found twenty feet of RJ11 telephone cable. It had four total wires - which would be more than enough to carry voltage, ground and signal wires. I sloppily spliced the wire, soldered it onto three jumpers, attached one side to the breadboard and another to the range finder. To my surprise - it actually worked. I was able to string the range finder all the way across the room, which also made ambient humidity readings more accurate.

In much the same way as I created the Bottle application for the garage door security monitor, I created a Bottle app to host REST APIs and display the well depth, temperature and humidity as well as allow Jabber (e.g. Google Talk) clients to request the status of the well and the climate. It all is working well so far, however I still need to tweak the Honeywell I2C code to make sure the component re-samples conditions at every request. Right now it is just fetching the currently stored values.

Right now the range finder is resting atop the sump pump well and is just waiting for the upcoming rains. My eventual goal is to create a home dashboard that aggregates all sensor data from around the house: sump pump well depth, basement temperature and humidity from the Basement Monitor APIs, ground-level temperature and humidity from a Nest thermostat, garage door state and camera feeds from the Garage Security APIs and maybe even power data from an attached APC UPS. The Bottle apps would then work to expose sensor data as REST APIs, and a more powerful Play application would serve the user interface, archive historical data, provide alerts and indicate trends.

Retrospective: The Raspberry Pi Garage Door Remote + Security System

My rinky-dinky garage security system is now online and in operational use. I still have more tweaks to do - for example, I got rid of the metal backplane within the My Book casing that now serves as my board enclosure because it shielded my WiFi signal, killing the network connection. I'm sure I will continue to tweak the Motion configs to increase framerates and decrease sensitivity. Now that e-mail notifications are working, hopefully I can limit the spurious notifications and just notify on the bigger changes of motion over two seconds in length.

Another measure of success is cost; if I could have purchased a ready-made setup for a marginal increase in cost, it may be better to go with a commercial platform. If the build is overkill and I could have built it with cheaper components, I should scrap this and re-build. Looking at commercial options I couldn't find anything that had both the garage door functionality and the security camera... just one or the other. Chamberlain does sell the MyQ Garage, a pretty nifty home automation product that contains a universal garage door opener and a tilt sensor that is WiFi-enabled and can be paired with a smartphone app. They also sell the MyQ Internet Connectivity Kit, which is more of an Internet-enabled garage door master controller. Neither have a security camera paired with it, but you could easily install a wireless camera separately for around $40. The MyQ solutions are $140 and $120 respectively, giving you a total build cost of $160-$180. Not bad, really.

If you bought every part new, the build list for my lil' setup is:

Raspberry Pi B	$40
USB Micro-B cable	$2
USB AC Adapter	$5
8GB Class10 SD Card	$8
802.11n USB dongle	$9
Parts for MOSFET switch	$5
Universal garage door opener	$25
HP HD-3100 webcam	$14
Enclosure made of random stuff	$0
Total	$108

I had most of these parts on-hand, so my actual cost was closer to $70. That means a savings of $90 over a commercial solution. I don't know of a cheaper solution than the Raspberry Pi that could handle a 1280x720 webcam feed and perform motion detection, and a $14 webcam is cheaper than Raspberry Pi's own camera expansion card.

Of course, your time isn't free. The hours spent in construction count - so I tried to estimate how long each step took me:

Tearing down & wiring up garage remote	1 hour
Setting up webcam and Motion	2 hours
Configuring OS & system administration	4 hours
Building web interface	3 hours
Building enclosure	2 hours

All told maybe 12 hours of work, a quarter of which was me figuring out how to render an MJPEG stream on an HTML5 canvas. The web interface can be re-used, as are the system administration steps, so I could probably do another in four hours or so. Four hours and $70 isn't too bad for peace of mind.

Speaking of ease of mind, I'll leave this thread with an ad for Chamberlain's MyQ Garage. I thought I was bad... but these actors have turned garage door anxiety into an existential crisis.