It's a Basement, not a Swimming Pool

Second up on my paranoia list is my basement slowly filling with water. My paranoia is founded in a rich history of failed sump pumps, broken water mains and power outages. I can mitigate some of my worries by installing a backup, non-electric Venturi aspirator and a die-cast primary sump pump - however anything mechanical can break. I believe in nothing anymore.

A Raspberry Pi can help satiate most of my neurosis, including this one. Using a Honeywell HumidIcon Digital Humidity/Temperature Sensor and a Maxbotix Ultrasonic Range Finder I can monitor basement humidity, temperature and sump well levels.

My first component to integrate was the range finder. The Maxbotix LV-EZ4 can operate in one of two modes - either providing an ASCII representation of the range using RS232 serial communication or using an analog voltage. I dorked around with two possible ways of using this - feeding an analog signal through an Adafruit Trinket and have the values translated into an I2C signal. However - I had a 5v Trinket - and even with constructing voltage dividers I couldn't quite coordinate the right voltages to negotiate with the Pi. I punted and used the serial port from the LV-EZ4, however the Pi uses UART and so I had to create a logic inverter using a recycled NPN transistor. Once I inverted the signals from the range finder, the Pi was able to read the inbound ASCII representation of the range.

After I had the range finder working, I used Sparkfun's Honeywell breakout board via I2C to communicate temperature and humidity to the Pi. Both the range finder and the breakout board fit nicely on a mini breadboard, sharing voltage and ground while splitting out I2C data, clock and RS232 data feeds. Once permissions were correctly set and kernel modules loaded, things appeared to be working nicely.

I wanted to save the range finder from water splashes, or at least slow its eventual decay. I re-used the case from the SD card I purchased for the Raspberry Pi, cutting out holes for the extrusions in the range finder board. Corners were then covered in electrical tape, and the seams were covered in hot glue. No, it's not pretty. No, it may not add to the LV-EZ4's lifespan. It was at least worth a shot however, and I've added a bit of crush/drop protection.

Everything is hooked into a Raspberry Pi Model A, just to save a few bucks. For an enclosure I ripped apart an old Netgear wireless access point, which easily housed the mini breadboard and the Pi. I decided to try things out but stumbled upon an unsettling fact... there are no power outlets near the sump pump well. Undeterred, I went looking for any long length of wire and found twenty feet of RJ11 telephone cable. It had four total wires - which would be more than enough to carry voltage, ground and signal wires. I sloppily spliced the wire, soldered it onto three jumpers, attached one side to the breadboard and another to the range finder. To my surprise - it actually worked. I was able to string the range finder all the way across the room, which also made ambient humidity readings more accurate.

In much the same way as I created the Bottle application for the garage door security monitor, I created a Bottle app to host REST APIs and display the well depth, temperature and humidity as well as allow Jabber (e.g. Google Talk) clients to request the status of the well and the climate. It all is working well so far, however I still need to tweak the Honeywell I2C code to make sure the component re-samples conditions at every request. Right now it is just fetching the currently stored values.

Right now the range finder is resting atop the sump pump well and is just waiting for the upcoming rains. My eventual goal is to create a home dashboard that aggregates all sensor data from around the house: sump pump well depth, basement temperature and humidity from the Basement Monitor APIs, ground-level temperature and humidity from a Nest thermostat, garage door state and camera feeds from the Garage Security APIs and maybe even power data from an attached APC UPS. The Bottle apps would then work to expose sensor data as REST APIs, and a more powerful Play application would serve the user interface, archive historical data, provide alerts and indicate trends.

Retrospective: The Raspberry Pi Garage Door Remote + Security System

My rinky-dinky garage security system is now online and in operational use. I still have more tweaks to do - for example, I got rid of the metal backplane within the My Book casing that now serves as my board enclosure because it shielded my WiFi signal, killing the network connection. I'm sure I will continue to tweak the Motion configs to increase framerates and decrease sensitivity. Now that e-mail notifications are working, hopefully I can limit the spurious notifications and just notify on the bigger changes of motion over two seconds in length.

Another measure of success is cost; if I could have purchased a ready-made setup for a marginal increase in cost, it may be better to go with a commercial platform. If the build is overkill and I could have built it with cheaper components, I should scrap this and re-build. Looking at commercial options I couldn't find anything that had both the garage door functionality and the security camera... just one or the other. Chamberlain does sell the MyQ Garage, a pretty nifty home automation product that contains a universal garage door opener and a tilt sensor that is WiFi-enabled and can be paired with a smartphone app. They also sell the MyQ Internet Connectivity Kit, which is more of an Internet-enabled garage door master controller. Neither have a security camera paired with it, but you could easily install a wireless camera separately for around $40. The MyQ solutions are $140 and $120 respectively, giving you a total build cost of $160-$180. Not bad, really.

If you bought every part new, the build list for my lil' setup is:

Raspberry Pi B	$40
USB Micro-B cable	$2
USB AC Adapter	$5
8GB Class10 SD Card	$8
802.11n USB dongle	$9
Parts for MOSFET switch	$5
Universal garage door opener	$25
HP HD-3100 webcam	$14
Enclosure made of random stuff	$0
Total	$108

I had most of these parts on-hand, so my actual cost was closer to $70. That means a savings of $90 over a commercial solution. I don't know of a cheaper solution than the Raspberry Pi that could handle a 1280x720 webcam feed and perform motion detection, and a $14 webcam is cheaper than Raspberry Pi's own camera expansion card.

Of course, your time isn't free. The hours spent in construction count - so I tried to estimate how long each step took me:

Tearing down & wiring up garage remote	1 hour
Setting up webcam and Motion	2 hours
Configuring OS & system administration	4 hours
Building web interface	3 hours
Building enclosure	2 hours

All told maybe 12 hours of work, a quarter of which was me figuring out how to render an MJPEG stream on an HTML5 canvas. The web interface can be re-used, as are the system administration steps, so I could probably do another in four hours or so. Four hours and $70 isn't too bad for peace of mind.

Speaking of ease of mind, I'll leave this thread with an ad for Chamberlain's MyQ Garage. I thought I was bad... but these actors have turned garage door anxiety into an existential crisis.

Shutting the Door; Finishing Up the Raspberry Pi Security Camera + Garage Opener Remote

I'm going to be tinkering with this new security camera / Internet-enabled garage door opener for some time... I imagine I'll add environmental monitoring and perhaps even hook it up to the sprinkler system. Even with future expansion in mind, I needed to shield the Raspberry Pi and the remote control board from dust and stray water. The mini protoboard I would likely keep as opposed to soldering a more permanent board, since I wanted the ability to dork around with the GPIO pins that have pull-down resistors built in and possibly add additional controls.

I had an old Western Digital My Book sitting around with a defunct hard drive, and it appeared to be nearly the right size to house the Raspberry Pi, the garage remote board and a mini breadboard. I decided to gut it and use the housing as an enclosure. I found a few motherboard standoffs in my toolbox, and uses those to keep both boards a few centimeters off of the metal backplate. The drive and controller itself I shelved.

Once I had everything stripped apart, the garage remote was mounted on one side of the board and the Raspberry Pi was mounted on the other. It was a tight fit, but I was able to get the webcam plugged in, the mini breadboard slid in and all the wiring completed within the confines of an old My Book chassis. Using a very technical device I call a "hacksaw," I removed some of the side wall of the enclosure so I could pull out the micro-usb cable for power and bring the webcam so it can be positioned independently.

In the end everything didn't quite fit... the garage remote is bursting out of its seam. However the general look of the device is far better than it was before. The unit is now back sitting on a shelf in the garage, quite content.

I still have some continued tweaks to do, but I think I've now addressed the root question: "is the garage door up?"